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4 min read · updated 2026-10-13

Brake check you can do in two minutes

Brakes are the one part you cannot afford to guess about. Here is what to look, feel and listen for.

What you need

  • A torch for the pads on a dark day

Steps

  1. Squeeze the front lever and press the rear pedal. Both should feel firm, not spongy, and stop short of touching the handlebar.
  2. Disc brakes: look at the pads from the side of the caliper. If there is less than about 2 mm of lining left, or the wear mark has reached the disc, it is time to replace them.
  3. Check the brake fluid reservoir (front, and rear if you have one). The level should be between MIN and MAX and the fluid clear to pale yellow.
  4. Drum brakes: check the free play at the pedal or lever. About 20 to 30 mm at the pedal is common; the adjuster nut at the wheel takes it up. Follow your manual.
  5. Roll the bike a few metres and brake gently. Listen for squealing or grinding and feel for pulsing or pulling to one side.

Common mistakes

  • Riding on grinding brakes. Metal on metal ruins the disc, which costs far more than pads.
  • Getting oil, chain lube or grease on discs or pads. Wipe the area before you spray anything.
  • Topping up fluid with a random type. Use the grade printed on the reservoir cap (usually DOT 3 or DOT 4).

When to go to a mechanic

  • A spongy lever: air in the system. Bleeding the brakes is a mechanic's job.
  • Fluid that is dark or more than about 2 years old; most makers suggest changing it around then.

This is general guidance for typical commuter motorcycles. Your owner's manual is the final word on pressures, intervals and oil grades for your bike. If you are unsure, ask a trusted mechanic.

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