5 min read · updated 2026-10-13

Cleaning and lubing your chain

A dry or gritty chain wears out the sprockets too. Ten minutes every few weeks saves a costly replacement.

What you need

Chain lube spray made for motorcycle chains
A rag and an old toothbrush; chain cleaner or a little kerosene
Centre stand or a paddock stand, so the rear wheel can spin

Steps

Put the bike on its stand with the engine off and in neutral.
Wipe off the old grease and mud, then scrub the chain with the toothbrush and cleaner. Turn the wheel by hand to reach every link.
Wipe it dry. Lube on a wet chain does not stick.
Spray the lube on the inner side of the lower run of the chain while turning the wheel slowly, one full turn.
Wait 5 to 10 minutes, then wipe off the excess so it does not fling onto the wheel and your clothes.
Check the slack at the middle of the chain. Most commuter bikes allow about 20 to 30 mm of up-and-down play; your manual gives the exact figure.

Common mistakes

Using engine oil, mustard oil or grease on the chain. They attract dust and make a grinding paste.
Getting lube on the tyre or brake disc. It makes them slippery. Keep a rag behind the chain while you spray.
Over-tightening the chain. It strains the bearings and the gearbox.

When to go to a mechanic

Stiff or kinked links, or a chain that has stretched past the adjustment limit.
Hooked or shark-fin shaped sprocket teeth. Replace the chain and both sprockets together.

This is general guidance for typical commuter motorcycles. Your owner's manual is the final word on pressures, intervals and oil grades for your bike. If you are unsure, ask a trusted mechanic.